1. The first move is to per square foot decide the size or area of the patio. This will later be reflected in the calculation of materials needed. Mark off the area with a can of white spray paint, slightly larger to allow restrictions on the paver edge and a footing base at the patio borders.go to LA Paver and Remodeling Group
2. Estimate the materials you need, select preferred pavers, most paver and concrete dealers can let you know how many items are available per square foot. Also estimate base material and sand, approximately 1 1/2 yards of gravel (3/4 “quarry process) per 100 square feet, this will support a 4″ compacted foundation. Sand-a fine mason sand, approximately 1/4 the amount of gravel foundation will be abundant.
3. Digging and preparing for a good paver base is important and will be the most time-consuming process. Excavate by shovel or loader if available, use local digging laws to avoid any buried cable. Make base 6′-8″ below desired patio height, the pavers will take 2” of that so that the gravel base under the pavers will be 4′- 6.’ Using a landscape fabric under gravel to help support and protect base from soil where possible. Some areas can need a deeper base from new house construction due to weak soil or a recent disturbed soil. First-pick up the gravel base from the wheelbarrow, shovel, roller, and rake it to a level roughly.
4. Grade the base patio with a 2X4 to give water runoff an even and sloped surface. Using around a quarter of a bubble technique on a 4 foot level to slope slightly to where ideal water will flow, making sure to slope the correct direction. 2 22X4s could be required for larger patios so they will have to be nailed together. If your patio is next to a concrete driveway or concrete or timbers bordering it, then use a modified 2X 4 to grade along that border (see picture on the left). Take the time to level, and re-grade (next step) after compaction is completed.
5. To get a solid base for the pavers, use a plate compactor or like compaction device. When the gravel is too dry, use a garden hose to spray it down some to make it compact easier. Additional gradation times until complete after each compaction.
6. Earlier fine grade with mason sand the same way grading was done, this final grade evinces the grade of rough gravel and allows a nice base even for the pavers. This is just a quarter inch or less layer of sand to maintain the proper grade, not an inch of sand as you might have heard about, remember the proper grade and slope has already been done with an easy gravel base to work with.
7. Lay the pavers in the desired pattern, see the resource page for pattern ideas, get the pavers as close as possible, start from a base point or house to allow the best pattern to look. Bear in mind that if patio area has curves or obstacles, pavers would need to be cut with a saw and diamond paver blade. It is likely that basic square patios require no cutting. Use a measuring technique or measure in place and mark with paver to cut pavers.
8. Finally, for greater strength, use a plastic edge restraint and secure with spikes about 2′ apart or less. Then sweep with the same mason sand, the smoother the better, it will sweep into the cracks and be a dry mortar for the pavers to talk out and stable. The cleaner the dryer, the easier it is to sweep in. Use the compactor to pack up the patio and let the sand fall deeper into the cracks. I would recommend putting cardboard or cloth under the compactor so as not to harm the pavers and also to avoid the vibrating noise, I bungie cord cardboard to the bottom of the compactor, but after a couple of times the cardboard will be worn but it will work for one use. Sweep sand again until the joints to the paver no longer take sand. And the last thing will be to fill black dirt around the edge to fulfill your wish, seed grass or rock and landscape (this covers the plastic edging).